Tuesday, February 23, 2016

Day 0 - Oct 10 - Arrival in Tokyo

After we arrived at Haneda we breezed through customs and immigration after being seen by what we presumed was a trainee immigration guard. Well he had a supervisor lurking over him and a supervisor lurking over the supervisor so someone was being monitored. They were polite and didn't ask more than the minimum of questions about how long and the purpose of the trip.

Once through I called the owner of the AirBnB we were staying at who said they'd meet us at the apartment in about 45 minutes. So, it's time to play navigate the foreign city transportation network.

Actually it was simple enough. It took us only a minute or so to figure out how to buy tickets on the Tokyo Monorail from Haneda to Hamamatsuchou station in Minato. This offered us our first ground level (well slightly elevated) view of Tokyo. Not always the most pleasant areas, mostly industrial and old tenement blocks, but some decent views our over the bay to the east.

Upon arrival at Hamamatsuchou we made our way, after a couple of false starts, downstairs to the taxi ranks. I gave the taxi driver the card I had prepared with the address on it, but unfortunately he seemed unsure as to exactly where it was. After a minute or so I managed to convince him it was near Akasaka Sacas (more on that in another post) and we were off.

The drive through Minato was relatively nice. Zoe was amazed that we drove right past some shrines and by the Tokyo Tower. Despite only covering a couple of miles we got to see some sights.

Unfortunately things went wrong from there. The driver managed to get us to Akasaka Sacas but couldn't get us to our destination. My Japanese apparently wasn't sufficient to direct him the route I was sure we needed to take to get to the apartment, so we ended up paying and walking.

Walking in Tokyo at night is perfectly safe, and the Akasaka area of Minato is as safe as any, so performing the walk wasn't an issue from a safety perspective. However we'd been up for seven and a half days at this point (I'm not sure, maybe 27 hours?) and were tired. True the walk was only about 700m, but with luggage that seems further. So off we went, trailing suitcases for a minor walk.

Oh, and did I mention the hills? Well it turns out that Tokyo is actually, like most of Japan, extremely hilly. As luck would turn out, Akasaka is one of the hillier areas of downtown. And yes, you guessed it, our apartment was up one of these hills.

This is the hill. Imagine this while tired, at night, trailing luggage.
So yes, it was an interesting walk. But we did eventually make it.

Finally we reached the apartment and only had to wait a couple of minutes for our host to turn up and show us in. Great guy that he is he had just been to a konbini moments before to get us some supplies to get us through the night. Noodles, snacks, milk, butter, bread and of course beer.

After saying goodnight to our host we unpacked and prepared for our first night.

But first, we made our own trip to the local 7-11.

Wednesday, February 10, 2016

Are Spiders Combustible Waste?

The title above was a genuine question asked on the first night in the apartment when we were looking to dispose of a rather large spider that had been located in the bedroom. And yes, the answer is very important. First, some background.

One of the first things we did when we reached our apartment, as we were unpacking, was to dispose of our boarding cards that were in our pockets. A simple enough proposition, you just put them in the recycling bin and you're done with it.

Only one problem. This is Japan, home of reuse and recycle, there is no "recycling" bin. There are many and it's up to you to manage them. Japan is one of the highest recyclers in the world with up to 77% of all plastics recycled every year.

For illustration, this is the poster on the wall of the kitchen in the apartment that helpfully tells us what goes where.

Well, at least it's in English.
This was the start of a month long trend of standing in the kitchen trying to determine which of the five different bags we needed to put something in. Recyclable plastics, plastic bottles, glass bottles, combustible waste and incombustible waste. I'm sure we missed one somewhere.

For reference, we decided the spider counted as Kitchen Waste, but the tissue was unrecyclable paper.

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Day 0 - Oct 10 - Flight to Tokyo

Our flight from Toronto to Tokyo was quite pleasant. Air Canada made us feel comfortable and despite being stuck in a middle seat for just over 12 and a half hours it was a good flight.

I happened to sit beside a working holiday resident from Osaka who was currently studying in Toronto. We had some conversations, such as how bad the instant noodles were and how they should have tried better since it's a flight to Japan. Apparently he'd never been to Tokyo in his life, and had no desire to visit. There's no love lost between Osaka and Tokyo and they're rivals at everything.

For entertainment purposes I barely managed to contain my laughter while watching Inside Out, Pixar's latest animated outing. Highly recommended. Terminator Genisys, not so great, but fine for getting rid of a couple of hours on a flight.

We flew up across northern Canada, over Alaska and then spent a reasonable amount of time over the mountainous wastes of north eastern Russia. While the view through through the clouds was spectacular, the thought often went through your mind of "if we go down here, no one will ever find our bodies."

This route had the great advantage of our flight to Tokyo taking us down over the length of Japan. When the cloud parted you could get good views of Hokkaido, the northernmost island, and it's peninsula that points towards Honshu, the main island of Japan.

Flying down the length of Honshu you could see the tall mountains with towns and cities crowded in wherever there was flat space. Large rivers denoted collections of civilization and the urbanization of everywhere you could see was apparent.

Once we got to Tokyo we had to circle a couple of times before we got our landing clearance. This was not a particular hardship as it meant a good view of Tokyo itself and the harbour. Tokyo sprawls. It really sprawls. It is urban and buildings as far as the eye can see. When they run our of space, they simply demolish a mountain somewhere and put the contents into Tokyo bay creating new land for construction. Much of the bay by the city has been taken over by these artificial islands, and surprisingly they're not unpleasant, but more on them later.

Finally though we arrived at Haneda airport. If you've never been to Haneda it's a slightly smaller airport than the huge Narita that is the main port of call for overseas flights and is mainly used by internal and east Asian carriers. While it is international, it's not its primary focus.

Landing at Haneda seems to result in an extremely long taxi to the International Terminal which is conveniently located as far from the runways as possible. And of course we landed on the runway furthest from it. This meant that just getting to the terminal took almost an additional 20 minutes after we touched down.

One good thing from the long taxi, we saw ANA's R2D2 painted plane in celebration of the new Star Wars movie coming out later that year. Which as a huge Star Wars fan and plane nut, was cool. Well for me anyway. No? Okay, moving along.

Monday, February 8, 2016

So Which Exit Do I Want?

So, you think the road system where you live can be confusing? This is a road sign that we spotted while taking in the sights in Odaiba, a large artificial island in Tokyo bay.




Friday, February 5, 2016

Joy of 7- Eleven

People living in North America may be rather confused at that post title. The chain of convenience stores known as 7-Eleven aren't exactly renowned for bringing any kind of joy, and are definitely not able to deliver you with anything that passes for food. The best food that a North American 7-Eleven can muster is something cylindrical that has been going up and down on rollers for an indeterminate amount of time, and probably picked it's flavouring from said rollers.

7-Eleven's in Japan are different. Very different.

In Japan, you can have a very good meal in a 7-Eleven. Or in fact any of the other convenience stores, known as konbini (コンビニ) in Japanese. In fact the konbini such as 7-Eleven, Lawson, Family Mart, Daily Yamazaki and others are held in such high regard it is one of the things that ex-pats from Japan miss the most.

Imagine this. A convenience store where freshly prepared food is delivered multiple times a day. Where the fresh microwavable items, sealed in heavy duty plastic, are actually delicious rather than just something that can fill you up without gagging. Where the prices are genuinely cheap and there is on on, seemingly, every street. Seriously, where we stayed there were at least five that I discovered within a 5 minute walk from the apartment.

The staff are friendly and come fully trained with an extensive library of hand gestures for communicating with foreign visitors (well maybe not specifically trained, but all the Japanese we met were exceedingly helpful, more on that another time.)

Sometime's though not everything is good. Take the below as exhibit A.


So what is it? Well it looks like a juicebox that most people are familiar with. It's about a cup in capacity (the Japanese cup is 180 ml rather than 250 ml. 

This is in fact a juicebox sized portion of sake, the Japanese rice wine. It was purchased from our local 7-Eleven on our first full day there. They cost 100 yen (¥) each, which was approximately $1 Canadian and there's enough there to make you slightly happy if you're not used to it.

So how did it taste? 

How do you think $1 sake tasted? It was vile. 

Thursday, February 4, 2016

How to scare a Japanese sarariman

Question of the day: What's the best way to scare a Japanese businessman at 4:30 in the morning? Got it yet? Apparently the best answer is to have a gaijin suddenly stumble out of the bushes in front of him. In the dark. With a camera.

So the next question is why was a gaijin hanging around in the bushes, in the dark, with a camera? Well it's a combination of events really.

Normally when I travel I don't get hit by jet lag much. Last time I went to Japan I got over the jet lag in a single day and it was a simple thing to do. For that trip it was a 9 hour difference forward, and I was going east. This time around, while it's a 13 hour difference forward I figured I'm going west this will be easy enough. At this point you're probably pointing and saying "wrong", and in fact you would be right.

The jet lag kicked my ass (for about the first 4 days) and consequently on the second day there  I was up at 4 am (along with 11:30pm, 1:00 am, 2:30 am, you get the idea.)

"Well I'm up", I thought, "I may as well do something useful. I know, I'll take my camera for a walk."

Just before the trip I'd made a new purchase of a nice prime focus 1.8f 50mm Canon lens for my camera. For those that don't speak photography what this basically means is I've got a lens that, while it doesn't zoom and is fixed, is very good in low light conditions due to its speed.

So armed with my camera and my nighttime shooting lense, I went out for a walk.

This leads me rapidly to the bushes incident. It's not really as exciting as it sounds. I like taking semi-abstract images and I'd found a good set of lit balconies that from the side made a nice shot. Due to the fact my camera lense was of a fixed length, I had to move myself to frame the subject as I wanted, hence the ending up moving into the bushes in order to get the shot. This lead directly to my emerging from the bushes in front of a, probably drunk, Japanese businessman and a cry of "ohayou gozaimasu (good morning)." The reaction was a startled yell followed rapidly by the loca moving away from the foreigner at a much higher rate of movement that they had previously been doing.

In all fairness, a Japanese policeman on a bicycle had seen me moving around in there only 30 seconds earlier and didn't bat an eyelid.

Incidentally, this is the photo I was trying to get. I just liked the pattern of the balcony lighting on the building.
Light patterned balconies

Wednesday, February 3, 2016

Day 0 – Oct 9/10 – Outbound Flight

 So here we are. It's 10:37 EST  on Friday 9th October 2015 and I'm sat at the gate in Toronto Pearson airport waiting for our flight to Tokyo Haneda. The realization is only just coming to light for us. This is the longest vacation I've ever taken and the longest deliberate time I've ever taken off work.

 Despite it being the Friday of the Thanksgiving weekend here in Canada, the trip up was ridiculously painless. Our neighbours kindly offered to drop us at the airport and as a result of leaving home at 9 am, by 9:45 we were through security and ready to settle in the lounge. So here I am, drinking my Starbucks tea (don't know when I'll next get to drink my black tea) and writing while waiting for our flight.

 3 hours until flight. 2 and a bit until boarding. It's getting real.

Our chariot awaits

Tuesday, February 2, 2016

Introduction and Prologue

Japan is a strange country, and one I’ve long had a fascination for. I’m not entirely sure where this fascination originally came from. I do distinctly recall reading some novels in high school and disliking them because they contained a riff on feudal samurai. So there was definitely a time when I disliked that kind of stuff.

I also recall in my teens getting into Japanese animation. I think it started, as it did with many westerners, with the release on VHS in 1991 of the classic Akira. I was already interested in Cyberpunk as a genre by that point and this seemed to be the best representation of it I’d seen on screen. Possibly this was the point where I started to pay attention to Japan and its movies.

Over the years I became more and more fascinated by the feudal period and the samurai (yes the same ones I had hated a novel for years earlier because they were included. What can I say, I was a teenager.) The continuing influx of anime to the west made me interested in learning the language which sounded fascinating to my ears. As a result it was around these late teen years where this started to become a real interest.

In time I started to seriously try and learn the language. The best opportunity came for me when I got a job 50 miles away from home that resulted in an hour’s drive each direction. I got bored with the radio after the first year, and my meagre music cassette collection didn’t get me much past the third. After four years I got a new car, and a new stereo with it. This one had a CD player (it was 2003 and I was behind the times, so sue me.)

Armed with this new CD player I acquired a copy of the Pimsleur Japanese CD courses, so those lessons became a new companion for me on my long drive to and from work.

In 2005 I discovered a new online service Japanesepod101.com. They offered free podcast lessons from beginner level right the way up in MP3 format. Great, this is perfect I thought, but I can’t get them into my car without spending a lot of time burning them onto CDs. Time I didn’t feel like spending as it would remove from more important things like watching TV etc.

One replacement stereo later I had a system in the car that would accept SD cards, so it was now a simple matter of loading them onto the card and listening to them when I wished. The drive to work was now something to look forward to. I would listen to the early lessons over and over while driving and they helped a lot. Let’s ignore the fact that many times I got home with no recollection of the actual drive, but I never once had an accident (kids, don’t do this.)

In 2006 I was made redundant from my job. Don’t be sad, we knew it was coming for a long time and were quite prepared. Armed with a year’s salary as my redundancy payment I took off the next month for a 3 week plus visit to Japan. I’d booked into the Asahi Nihongo school in Fukuoka, Kyushu, Japan to study  Japanese.

For nearly a month I lived with a great family in Fukuoka and attended school in the day and studied at night. I had an amazing time and could happily have spent an extra month or more there. My Japanese got actually reasonably good, not exactly fluent but I could definitely make myself understood. Unfortunately it was getting close to Christmas and I had a wife to get home to at some point, so reluctantly I returned home.

Unfortunately I am the kind of person who gets obsessed with something for a while, then puts it down never to return for years. This is exactly what happened with my studies once I returned to England.

My biggest regret from my time there wasn’t that I didn’t keep up with my studies, but was that I didn’t get a chance to explore and experience Japan for what it could be. I commuted to school and studied, but never felt like I experienced it as well as I could. Other than seeing Osaka for a day when I first landed I traveled little and yearned for more.

Emigrating to Canada took up most of the next two years. Study was the last thing on my mind as we packed up our entire lives and moved over the ocean to a new land. Finding new jobs, meeting new friends and earning new experiences took up everything. Dreams of Japan and the language were fading.

I’d often brought up the subject of going to Japan again to my wife yet she seemed… reluctant. Okay, perhaps scared, terrified, frightened, out of her depth etc. would be better ways of approaching it. Occasionally the topic would be brought up, and we’d decide to put it off for another year for various reasons.

Things changed in 2013.

For some years I’d been backing small projects on the Kickstarter website, mainly roleplaying related projects from companies and people that I’d bought from before. One day while browsing through the site I came across a Kickstarter for an interesting book. Pretty Good Number One: An American Family Eats Tokyo by Matthew Amster-Burton.

Pretty Good Number One Eats is about a family of three that rents an apartment in Tokyo for a month and explores the city mainly through the medium of food. Let’s face it, there are few cities in the world better for food than Tokyo.

I had the book for a while on the conclusion of the Kickstarter but it wasn’t until early 2014 that I got around to reading it. It’s a great read and I encourage you to pick it up.

At the time my wife was looking for something new and different to read and I mentioned it to her, so she took the time and read through it. Once she finished it I believe the comment was along the lines of “that sounds like a great thing to do, let’s do that.” So the seeds were planted.

It was then, in short order, agreed that in 2015 we would take a month’s vacation and rent an apartment in Tokyo for that time. Flights are booked (October 9th to November 10th) and the time also nicely coincides with my 40th birthday on October 13th, which is a great added bonus but not entirely planned that way. Honest :)

So it’s finally happening. I get to go back and experience the Japan I’ve been looking for since 2006.

Nine years later, we’re Tokyo bound.

Monday, February 1, 2016

Beginnings

Last year I had the fortune to be able to spend a month in Tokyo, with my wife, just relaxing and doing whatever we wanted. We found ourselves there, in a one bedroom apartment we found online, for a full month with no plan.

This blog is to act as a travelogue of our time there and of random musings relating to the trip. My ultimate goal is to publish a formal travelogue book of our time, and travels to Tokyo, as there isn't much out there on Japanese travelogues.

In my day job I work in an Agile software development house. This has taught me the value of a minimum viable product. Yes I want to write a book about this, but first I need to get some writing that can ultimately, hopefully, become a book. So a minimum viable product for me right now is this blog. One day, as my writing progresses my thoughts and direction may take on a better focus and the layout of the final product may become clear, but for now it's just writing.

So here I am. Writing a blog on my trip to Tokyo.

What can you expect? Well I don't really know myself. I'm as much along for the ride as you are, just in a different sense. I don't know what I'll write about from one day to the next, even though the original travel experience has been had. So your guess is as good as mine. However come along and join me for the trip.